[游记]四川阿坝藏族羌族自治州游记—五明佛学院—同程旅游博客

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拍摄时间：2005年7－8月

Time of production: July – August 2005

去过佛学院的人，其心灵肯定受到极大的震撼，我也如此。藏区也不是第一次去了，没到前想象那里不过是一个大一点的寺庙而已，到达后，强烈视觉冲击让我目瞪口呆！上万间绛红色墙面的小屋在三个山头连成一片，其分布状如藏族神话里的大鹏金翅鸟，面对这恢宏的场面，我仿佛置身星战和魔戒的科幻世界。

它不是寺庙，而是一所藏传佛教红教宁玛派创建的佛学院，说是宁玛派佛学院不准确，因为它的包容性很大，各个流派的人（包括汉族）都可来此学佛。其师资强大，仅堪布（教授）就有几十人之多。

原计划在此停留两三天，但它深深的吸引了我，我不分白昼的拍摄，近一个月才离开。

Those who have ever been to the Buddhist institute must have been greatly shocked in their soul, and such is the case for me. I had ever been to Tibet before I visited the institute. In my imagination, it was merely a large temple, but after arrival, I was struck by the strong visual impact! About ten thousand small houses with deep red wall connect with each other on three hills with the layout like a Garuda which existed in Tibetan fables. Facing such magnificent scene, I feel as if I was in a science fiction world of star war and magic ring.

It is not a temple but a Buddhist institute established by the red school - the Nyingma School of Tibetan Buddhism. However, it not exactly an institute of Nyingma School, because it is widely inclusive, and people of various schools (including Han Nationality) come here for studying Buddhism. It has a strong team of faculty, including dozens of professors.

I originally planned to stay here for 3 days, but as I was strongly fascinated by its charm, I stayed nearly one month busy producing photos day and night.

图1：佛学院全景。

Picture1： Panorama of Sertar Tibetan Buddhist Institute

图2：佛学院的觉姆（尼姑）非常多，有14000人左右，而喇嘛只有4000人左右。她们上课的场面很大，一堂大课有两三千人，课堂外巨大的鞋柜放满了学生们的鞋子。

Picture 2：There are as many as around 14000 Buddhist nuns but only 4000 Lamas in the Buddhist institute. It is a grand scene when they are having classes, with 2-3000 nuns attending a class, and the huge shoes cabinets outside the classroom are full of shoes of students.

图3：坛城是佛学院的精神中心，从早到晚，远道而来的信徒和佛学院的僧尼按顺时针方向不停的转经。

Picture 3：Buddha Mandala is the spiritual center of the Buddhist institute. During the daytime, Buddhist followers from far away and monks and nuns of the Buddhist institute incessantly pray by walking clockwise.

图4：藏族妇女，以吃苦耐劳著称，在佛学院更是如此，除了日常学习，还有繁重的体力劳动，修造房屋都是自己运送建筑材料。

Picture 4：Tibetan women are famous for hard working, such is the case in the Buddhist institute. Besides routine study, they undertake the heavy physical work and even transport building materials during house building.

图5：一个觉姆（尼姑）在修补房屋。在佛学院，觉姆（尼姑）和喇嘛上课及生活都是严格分开的，各有各的经堂和居住区，也不允许他们互相来往，所以，这样的工作也得自己动手。

Picture 5：One Buddhist Nuns was repairing room at Buddhist institution .Nuns and lamas have different classroom and livingroom,it is must separated.and prohibit contact each other.so , Nuns have to doing this work forself

图6：佛学院没有自来水供应，几万人的生活用水都靠人力运送，这对走在回家路上的母子，手里提着从几里外山沟汲取的泉水。

Picture 6：No tap water is available in the Buddhist institute, so living water for tens of thousands of people in the institute is transported by manpower. A mother and son on their way home carried water drawn from miles away.

图7：藏族男子在家里养尊处优，出家后，原来由妇女做的洗衣、做饭、缝缝补补都靠自己了。

Picture7：in the past, the Zang man was high fed, never had to do any housework, like laundry, cooking and needlework. Since entered into region, he has no one to rely on but himself.

图8：藏传佛教和汉传佛教不同，出家后还能和家人保持联系，过年还可回家，家人也可去探望他们，这是一个觉姆（尼姑）和亲友在一起。

Picture 8：Tibetan Buddhism is different from Han Buddhism. In Tibetan Buddhism, Buddhists can keep contact with their families and go back home to spend the Spring Festival, and their family members can also go to visit them. A Buddhist nun stayed with her relatives.

图9：暮色中，一个年轻的觉姆（尼姑），在已经圆寂的佛学院创建者故居前念经，据说，这样会得到他的加持。昨天这里举行了护法大会，地上铺满了活动撒下的龙达。

Picture 9：At dark, a young nun repeated the sutras in front of the former residence of a founder of the Buddhist institute who has passed away. It is said that this will help to get his empowerment and responding. A Dharma meeting was held here yesterday, so the ground was covered with five-color flags left during a Buddhist activity.

图10：辩经是一种很好的学习方法，在五明佛学院，每天下课后，五点半开始，喇嘛们陆续来到经堂的院子里，随意结对辩经，不分年龄大小和地位高低，一方坐着，另一方站着，面对面的辩论，交流对佛经的理解。

Picture 10：Debating on Buddhist scriptures is a good way for studying. In Sertar Tibetan Buddhist Institute, Lamas successively arrive at this courtyard at half past five everyday and engage in face to face debating and exchange their understanding on Buddhist scriptures in pairs, regardless of age and status, one sitting and the other standing.

图11：7月31日，佛学院举行一个盛大的护法大会，停课一天，全部上神山举行护法仪式。早上八点多会场人山人海，龙达飞扬，桑烟缭绕。

Picture 11：On July 31, the Buddhist institute held a grand Dharma meeting, class was suspended for one day, and all the students went to Holy Mountain of Tibet for holding the Dharma rite. At the venue at around 8 O’ clock in the morning, there are huge crowds of people and numerous five-color flags.

图12：护法大会上，人们三五成群，席地而坐诵经护法。

Picture 12：At the Dharma meeting, people sat together reciting sutras threes and fours.

图13：护法大会对一个信徒来说非常重要，这个年老体弱的喇嘛，步履艰难的来到海拔4000多米的会场。

Picture 13：Dharma meeting is very important for a Buddhist follower. This old and frail Lama was trudging towards the venue at the altitude of over 4000m.

图14：护法大会结束，是群众体育活动，因陋就简，跳高、跳远、赛跑，人人参与。

Picture 14：Lamas meeting concluded, it is a sports activity for the general public, including sports items such as high jump, long jump, race etc. Every one can participate in the activity.

图15：长明的酥油灯照亮了凌晨一点多的玉佛殿，满天繁星留下了它们运行的轨迹。

Picture 15：Butter lamps that are always illuminating shed a bright light on the Jade Buddha Hall and numerous stars all over the sky left their orbiting track.

图16：佛学院的天葬台在藏区非常有名，因为它被称为“天顶天葬台”，意即离天堂最近，来此天葬的死者很多是由家人远道运来，目的就是要通过这个天葬台快快的到达天堂，两个藏民抬着即将天葬的死者转经，稍后，死者会被送到天葬台完成天葬。

Picture 16：The celestial burial platform of the Buddhist institute is very famous as it is called “vertex celestial burial platform” which means it is nearest to the heaven. The decedents here for celestial burial were most sent from far away by their family members with an aim to send them to the heaven as soon as possible via this platform.

图17：天葬开始的一瞬间,几百只秃鹫从山坡和天空进入天葬台.

Picture 17：when Clestial burried opening ,sounds of via flying to Clestial burried from mountainslope and heaven.

图18： 图为一只在天葬过程中的秃鹫．

Picture 18：it is a vulture in the celestial burial process.

图19：住在佛学院附近山谷的藏民，一有闲暇就去佛学院的坛城转经，两个藏族妇女转完经，往山下的家里走去。

Picture 19：The Tibetans living at the valleys near the Buddhist institute always go to the Buddha Mandala of the Buddhist institute for praying at spare time. Two Tibetan women walked towards their home down the hill after praying at the Mandala.

图20：佛学院的确是个神奇的地方，风景优美，最特别的是这里根本看不到藏区非常严重的鼠害。

Picture 20：The Buddhist is really a miraculous place with picturesque sceneries. Especially no rat pests that plague the Tibetan region can be found here.