[游记]回忆婺源:李坑,小桥流水(页1)

回忆婺源: 李坑, 小桥流水<FONT size=3><br><P>在当地众古村中<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>李坑算是走在旅游发展的先端<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>修了一夫当关的巨型收费站<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>购了电瓶车载游客进村<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>建了干净的公厕<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>村前种上一大片油菜花<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>重修旧宅<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>重铺村路<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>加放指示牌<FONT face="Times New Roman">… </FONT>再在村口树起一道鲜明的品牌<FONT face="Times New Roman">: “</FONT>小桥流水人家<FONT face="Times New Roman">”, </FONT>目标是将到婺源来的团队一网打尽<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>获取最丰厚的经济效益<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>综观各地古村庄的求生求变中<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>往往缺乏的规划<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>参观的人往往叹气地说<FONT face="Times New Roman">: “</FONT>少了那种味道<FONT face="Times New Roman">!” </FONT>在蜕变的过程中<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>李坑可算是找到了一个相对的平衡点<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>不至于如某些村庄<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>村干部盅饱私囊<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>收了门票钱<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>就只顾自己吃喝玩乐<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>村庄的保养<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>村民生活的改善<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>都一于懒理<FONT face="Times New Roman">. <br></FONT><p><P><FONT face="Times New Roman"><p></FONT><p><P><FONT face="Times New Roman"></FONT>相比江南那些具规模的古镇古村庄<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>李坑是较为小巧的小桥流水<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>小桥的特色是多<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>且偏向实际用途方面<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>例如<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>临河的人家在河上铺一块混凝土板<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>以便出入方便<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>小河的流水还是很清<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>洗菜洗米就是一个证明<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>在村中游览很容易<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>沿着河流进入<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>攀上小山丘<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>下来再汇入小河<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>便顺利绕村一周<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>把所有的景点都看到<FONT face="Times New Roman">. <p></FONT><p><P><FONT face="Times New Roman"><p></FONT><p><P><FONT face="Times New Roman"></FONT>村中具代表性的旧宅有大夫第<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>武状元府第和铜绿第<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>大夫第是村中雕刻最精致的大屋<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>但在书上少有着墨<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>甚至没有任何文字提及<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>为什么没有提及这个大户人家的历史呢<FONT face="Times New Roman">? </FONT>我想<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>或与清末的买官卖官有关<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>那时官场腐败<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>很多官职都是用钱买的<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>这也是为何在大大小小的村庄里<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>多数都有大夫第<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>不过<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>这高大的府第<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>挂上两串红灯笼<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>在西斜的日照下<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>倒影在小河里<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>刚刚符合人们印象里的古村模样<FONT face="Times New Roman">. <p></FONT><p><P><FONT face="Times New Roman"><p></FONT><p><P>南宋武状元李知诚的寒舍在村尾<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>虽然是状元<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>但府第没有飞檐高墙<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>反而更接近如普通百姓人家的格式<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>看来状元该是出身布衣<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>从官后也没有同流合污<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>又或是李并没有受函<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>因为书上说<FONT face="Times New Roman">: </FONT>在<FONT face="Times New Roman">&lt;</FONT>徽州府志<FONT face="Times New Roman">&gt;</FONT>中<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>并没有武状元李知诚记载<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>李宅的房间不大<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>但就令到院子看起来很宽松<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>正适合锻炼武功<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>院子内有一方塘<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>塘边有一树紫薇<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>端坐书房<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>便能享受窗前这一清雅<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>看来房间的设计也有用心<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>由院子的侧门出去<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>就是小河<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>小河的对岸是丛林茂盛的山丘<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>过小桥<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>左面有土地<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>有村民在盛取岩石渗出的山水<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>由右边的小路走不远<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>便到山丘的平台<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>平台上有几位影友<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>正等待着云里阳光投射到坚实的灰墙上<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>在这里可以眺望整个嵌在小山谷里的村庄<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>四面的山脊正好是一道屏障<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>为李坑遮风挡雨<FONT face="Times New Roman">. <p></FONT><p><P><FONT face="Times New Roman"><p></FONT><p><P><FONT face="Times New Roman"></FONT>由平台的另一端下山<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>经过婚宴展览室<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>和村内的平地<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>想是看社戏的地方<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>然后<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>就是铜绿第<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>另一个大户人家的府第<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>起名铜绿第<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>原因是跟其主人所做的生意有关<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>楼主的化工生意是贩卖用作药材和颜料的铜锈<FONT face="Times New Roman">. <p></FONT><p><P><FONT face="Times New Roman"><p></FONT><p><P>李坑人是唐太祖李世民的后代<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>相传唐代末年<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>唐太子避难定居婺源<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>李坑就是李氏的一个分枝<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>李坑曾出过千多名商家仕官<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>但在书上只是几行字<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>还不及坊间人物<FONT face="Times New Roman"> “</FONT>李氏三师<FONT face="Times New Roman">”. </FONT>爷爷是游手好闲之辈<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>偶拜得过路<FONT face="Times New Roman">”</FONT>名师<FONT face="Times New Roman">”, </FONT>学会求雨驱邪之法<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>然后传给儿子<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>再传给孙子<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>说白辣了就是巫师<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>有如今日的<FONT face="Times New Roman">”</FONT>祈福党<FONT face="Times New Roman">”, </FONT>骗财罢了<FONT face="Times New Roman">. <p></FONT><p><P><FONT face="Times New Roman"><p></FONT><p><P>李坑不大<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>不及江南古镇的繁华<FONT face="Times New Roman">. </FONT>但仿佛<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>它更接近我小时的家乡小村<FONT face="Times New Roman">, </FONT>留宿一晚也好<FONT face="Times New Roman">. <p></FONT><p><P><FONT face="Times New Roman"><p></FONT><p><P>照片<FONT face="Times New Roman">: </FONT>婺源<FONT face="Times New Roman"> (</FONT>北线<FONT face="Times New Roman">,</FONT>东线<FONT face="Times New Roman">)<p></FONT><p><P><a href="http://hk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jerryce_sky2005a/my_photos" target="_blank" ><FONT face="Times New Roman">http://hk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jerryce_sky2005a/my_photos</FONT></A><p><p><P>实用旅行资讯：<p><p><P>请参考<FONT face="Times New Roman">2005</FONT>年发表的<FONT face="Times New Roman">--</FONT>信息篇<FONT face="Times New Roman">: </FONT>江西婺源东北线<p><p><P><IMG height=500 onload="javascript:if(this.width>700) {this.height= 700/this.width*this.height; this.width=700;}" src="http://images3.ctrip.com/wri/images/200705/CE_SKY06115437734.jpg" width=335><BR>(li keng)</P>

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